When Alessandro Michele showed his final collection for Gucci in Milan, I’ll admit I was a bit relieved. The theatrics that had developed in the years of his creative direction, severed heads etc, were a bit sad. However, when the Rome-born designer made his hotly awaited return to the runway with his debut collection for Valentino, a so-called ‘Pavillon des Folies’ I was happy to see his new inspiration.

The show took place early fall, in the Dojo de Paris a judo stadium in the 14th arrondissement on the outside of the city. The dimly lit space featured a scattering of furniture and lamps covered with dust sheets, while the runway itself had the appearance of a shattered mirror.

This second act Michele, post Gucci seemed more cinematic in scope. The collection itself evoked an eclectic, romantic quirkiness; think Gwyneth Paltrow in Royal Tenenbaums, or Edith Beal from Grey Gardens. A ruffled-hem black dress with a white bib and bows, worn with colored tights and heeled pumps (bows would be a motif which ran throughout). Floral motifs, ruffles, and polka dots were also featured across the collection.

Accessories included enormous wide-brimmed hats, some with plumes of feathers, and an array of new handbag propositions. Mostly riffs on vintage, ladylike styles – whether top-handle or flap fastening and slung over the shoulder – they came adorned with the Valentino ‘V’ motif, gobstopper studs, or in mock croc. Given his success in revitalizing handbags from the Gucci archive, these should be popular.

We are anxious to see how the direction unfolds for the Fall/Winter collection he will release in February 2025.