Jason Wu has changed the aesthetic of his newest line. He’s redirecting his decorative impulses into prints, and he’s also developed a penchant for collaboration. His fall prints marry the work of two women, the Japanese artist Ozabu whose preferred medium is pencil, and Wu’s longtime florist Emily Thompson, who has an inspired eye for color.

“I’ve been craving new ideas and a sense of interaction,” Wu said. “We were alone last year, but that didn’t mean we had to be insular.” The results of these collaborations look amazing and yet slightly understated.

That said, Wu did let himself fantasize a bit leaning back into his glamortastic days of old. There’s a long dress in strapless tulle finished with a frothy, abstract flower and two more in taffeta with dramatic volumes at the bodice. He tempered them somewhat with raw, unfinished edges, but there’s no mistaking them—they’re honest-to-goodness gowns, which will demand a red carpet or a gala. Or maybe not? Wu reported seeing a woman eating dinner in one of New York’s countless outdoor dining set-ups in a strapless red dress. “I want glamour,” he said. Him and her both.