Vaccarello’s color palette was gloriously toned down but definitive, drawn from Polaroid-photographed garments of YSL accessories in the past: soft browns, purples, camels, olives and browns, their hues enhanced by cuffs or a style adorned with substantial jewels. Claude Lalanne. . There were hardly any sandals and satin shoes with high vamps and shimmering metallic hues. It all came together to create a look that was finished, polished, thoughtful and, it’s time to bring that word back, clearly, done: a response to the idea that everything is dragging us down an inexorable slide into a bland, boring social style. , uniform and social. – Exaggerated coldness in the media.

However, in the 1930s or 1980s, it didn’t really matter. What drives Vaccarello is where we are now. Despite the historical reference, its impulse is to always exist in the present. You can trace that from this collection to her latest women’s shows. It’s a yarn that takes you from the off-the-shoulder blazers and latex of Winter 2020 to the swaggering Belgian coats and maxi skirts she made for tonight’s fall proposal. Let’s call what Vaccarello does dressing with power. It is not based on external gestures: the width of the shoulders, the height of the heels or the length of the skirts. Instead, it reflects what’s inside, unspoken, but undeniably mighty and powerful.