Where the silver wind blows Women’s Winter 21 by Anthony Vaccarello this time round, he was drawn to Monsieur Saint Laurent’s classically elegant mid ’60s tailleurs rendered in menswear fabrics; just the kind of thing Belle wore when she started working during du Jour. He ratcheted up the cool factor by cutting the jackets lean and sinuous and then matching the length of their hems to his skirts. (Yep, they’re short.) Then he swapped out Saint Laurent’s then preferred monochromatic palette with a fabulously opulent and in your face array of violet, cobalt, gold, and chartreuse: “It’s the shapes of the ’60s with the colors of the ’80s,” Vaccarello said by way of explanation.

Finishing the looks off, he slipped gleaming metallic stretch bodysuits or the tiniest of leather miniskirts under the tailoring. Then he loaded up on the bijoux, great gleaming gorgeous fistfuls of the stuff; chandelier earrings, strasse bracelets, and chokers with a four-leaf-clover motif, something else sourced from the archive. It would be remiss not to mention the ultra-long leather boots (shades of very early YSL, when he was in his Beat phase) or the wickedly pointy metal-tipped heels. Watching Mica Argañaraz navigate a stony cliff edge in them like she’s wearing sneakers gives a whole new meaning to the appellation “rock goddess.”