The Chanel Spring 2021 Haute Couture collection belongs in the former category. Similar to the Métiers d’Art collection in December, the runway was unveiled in front of a select few brand ambassadors, like Marion Cotillard, Penélope Cruz, Vanessa Paradis and her daughter, Lily-Rose Depp, all spread out safely across the set of floral arches and wooden chairs. Models then flooded the petal-scattered runway, splitting to take individual turns of their own before then taking up chairs in the audience set with  — almost as though they themselves were just well-dressed Chanel clients.

The collection is packed with that ’80s-tinged punch Viard has been playing with for several seasons now, but it seems like she may finally be working out the kinks. “I’m always thinking about what women would like to have in their wardrobe today,” she said. And, for once, many of those details — big, ruffled petticoat skirts and minidresses with overflowing tulle bustles — feel like something modern women would want to wear. Check out our favorite looks from the show bellow.